How Bagels Spread across Nantucket
Written by Brian Bushard
Photography by Kit Noble
A taste of New York has arrived on Nantucket. By 10 a.m. on a Saturday, the bagels at Slow to Rise Bakery’s stand at the farmer’s market have all but sold out. Down the street, Bagel Bar (opened in June by the owners of sushi restaurant Bar Yoshi, no less), is peddling freshly baked bagels. Meanwhile, Nantucket coffee conglomerate Roastd is baking bagels at its Airport Gas shop for its four island locations. And on Old South Road, the Meat & Fish Market is baking bagels every single morning.
“It seems there has been a bagel explosion,” Bagel Bar owner Marc Knight said over a brunch of bagel sandwiches and Italian paninis. “This whole idea started a year ago and [Bagel Bar] opened briefly last year. But when we hatched the idea, there wasn’t as much of a bagel scene.” But over the past few years, Nantucket’s breakfast scene has started to look a lot more like something out of Brooklyn.At the Meat & Fish Market, owner Sean Ready has been baking bagels in house and serving heaping bagel sandwiches since he opened the shop nine years ago. The Meat & Fish Market even introduced a Cisco bagel, made with the brewery’s Whale’s Tale Pale Ale. Meanwhile, the duo of Tucker Puljic and Katrina Newfrock have been running Slow to Rise on Nantucket since 2022, with classics like plain, poppy seed and cinnamon sugar, to a Middle Eastern za’atar spice bagel, an English muffin bagel and an Italian-style cacio e pepe bagel with Parmigiano-Reggiano and black peppercorns.This isn’t the first time Nantucket has seen everything bagels everywhere. In the mid-1990s, Nantucket got its first taste of New York bagels, when Big Apple transplant Brad Moore opened Bagel Basin behind the former restaurant 21 Federal. Not one month later, there was a second bagel shop, The Nantucket Bagel Company, which was later purchased by Something Natural. The Gaslight even baked its own bagels for a time for Sunday brunches, serving smoked salmon or bluefish on bagels and tuna tataki or Italian cold-cuts in bagel sandwiches—with mimosas and Bloody Marys.Where Nantucket’s burgeoning bagel scene goes from here is to be seen. But if one thing is true, this is no half-baked idea. “The popularity of bagels has exploded in the last 10 years,” said Chris Dadey, a food and beverage consultant for Roastd. “It’s a little bit of New York culture moving north."
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